全球首家古又文品牌旗艦店終於在台開幕!2009年年底他以情緒雕塑(Emotional Sculpture)系列拿下 Gen Art 前衛時裝大獎,五年多後他以相同初衷繼續為大家帶來充滿著感官情緒的時裝,一起跟著作者 Alex 走進古又文2015春夏作品——迷情花園。(推薦閱讀:

Johan Ku is the designer I have followed a lot from high school. Since 2009 when he won the Gen Art The Design Vision of Avant-Garde awards, I have seen him as my goal of being a fashion designer.  So it was like seeing my high school idol in person while interviewing him.

古又文一直是我在關注的台灣設計師,高中聽到他沒有任何家世背景,靠自己的實力得獎時,內心就有種莫名的崇拜感,覺得他好像我們這些從小非生長在名門權貴的希望燈塔。他也很爭氣這幾年在東京時裝周大放異彩,受到 WWD 的好評。而今年他終於在台灣開了一間全球旗艦店,回到他的家鄉,開啟通往全球時裝世界的大門。

The Flagship Store Info 全球旗艦店資訊

Bellavita 2nd floor 寶麗廣場二樓
Address: No.28, Songren Rd., Xinyi Dist., Taipei City 110, Taiwan (R.O.C.)
Weekday / 10:30 – 22:00 
The day before the holidays / 10:30 – 22:30 
TEL + 886 2 8729 2271

Now please follow me to take a look at their first Global Flagship store! Thanks to Womany for invitation and Scott for photography

接著就跟我一起來輕鬆逛古又文全球第一間旗艦店吧,之前他在國外都是跟 select shop 以買斷方式合作為主,這次回台灣開旗艦店對品牌是大加分,讓他一整季靈感能完整呈現!

先感謝女人迷邀約跟好友 Scott 的絕佳攝影

The overall visual design is superb!The floral design perfectly matches the latest collection. They also have complete 01 byJohan Ku collections for business women, so no matter you want more couture like Gold Label or daily wear like 01, you can all find it here.

整體的視覺設計非常棒,一進門看到滿滿的花牆完美呼應春夏主題,裡面逛街動線流暢,擁有完整的訂製服Gold Label系列,和上班族穿的01 Johan Ku 系列,可說各種消費者都能找到喜歡的衣服啊!詳細等我最後的專訪跟大家解釋

First is the Ribbon-cutting ceremony with Celebrities and designer himself

開幕剪彩邀請到設計師本人,女神郭雪芙,聶永真跟 Bellavita 董事梁佳敏剪彩,郭雪芙真的蠻適合這種立體感的衣服,因為本人纖細這種分量感較重的衣服穿起來特別好看!

Below is Gold Label collection

先來看看高訂系列(喜歡都可以跟品牌聯絡定製)

 Gold Label also has men's collection

Gold Label 同時有少量男裝系列

 

The SS15 collection is based on "The hanging Garden" which mixs the sorrow and romance into fabulous pieces. With different textile mixing and sewing to make it vivid on people and exclusive pattern with Andrew Penketh, he perfectly captures garden flower spirit of born and death.
這次春夏Gold Label靈感來自於電影迷情花園,布料都是他獨家跟英國百貨Harvey Nichols的攝影師Andrew Penketh所研發,以墨綠與深紫色為基底,運用手工立體刺繡花朵呈現(每一朵都是他與團隊親自縫製的,非常耗時),完美表達出花園裡花朵的盛開與凋零,立體拼接紗線就像是花朵熱情綻放,絲質陰暗的色調就像是凋零紛飛的花瓣,從生到死都要美的無怨無悔。

剛好呼應我之前看到愛亞的散文送給大家:
我喜歡的,無非是那一直火燎原般奉獻式的花朵盛放;以及在拼盡生命力後,花朵兒飄然萎地的心甘情願,無聲無息。
而人,往往是既不捨得奉獻,又不肯於心甘情願,無聲無息的。

 The scarf is from Johan Ku's collection 我穿的是古又文最新推出絲巾系列

Then it's the 01 Johan Ku 's collection with really useful workwear items for every business woman, and stunning fabric to make you comfortable at work.

接著是他的副牌01 Johan Ku 系列,這系列走的是比較實穿上班路線,古又文也運用他本身對布料的豐富知識在這系列,用頂級的,用頂級的真絲, Cashmere 羊毛等給上班族女性舒適時尚的選擇,這季使用大量的極輕薄 Silk Georgette(真絲喬其紗),適合夏天悶熱的天氣

 They also have scarves and small leather goods 

他們現場也有很多好入手的絲巾跟皮件系列

Then it's my interview Time! 接著就是我第一次嘗試的專訪!

 We accidentally found out his card holder is like a lighter! Super cute~

專訪時候被我們發現他的名片夾超可愛,就像個打火機一樣讓我們在場的人好升火~

1.  Why you start your own flagship store this year?

Ku: I always think of myself as a designer, and that was what I focused on previous years. I used to collaborate with those select shops like OC in US and others in Europe, focusing on my own design part. This year is lucky to have agency to help me start my own store here. It's a good way to let me concentrate on design, sales and business part handled by those professional people.

1.知道您2009得名後一直有在參展,為何會選在今年才開第一間旗艦店呢?

古:得獎後我一直都把自己定位在設計師,因為我本身擅長的就是設計。以前主要都是跟歐美買手店以買斷方式合作,今年剛好很幸運遇到代理商賞識,願意投資我的品牌旗艦店,這樣剛好能讓我繼續專心發揮設計所長,把銷售行銷交給專業的來,我想是個不錯的嘗試。(推薦閱讀:

2.What's your plan for your different brands?

Ku: After attending the show in US, I found out the importance of brand separation. 01 is positioned as American business women with useful & wearable pieces. Gold label is more about my ultimate crazy ideas. So I can pour all my creativity and handcraft on gold label without worrying if it sells. I think it's hard to make a brand super creative but also best-selling and that's why I did it. 

2.請問您接下來的品牌規劃?

古:自從去美國參展後,我認真發現品牌區隔的重要性。01是針對上班族女性實穿系列,而 Gold Label 則是我發揮極致創意的地方。看看雪芙身上這件我手工縫製的立體洋裝,我能耗費大量時間在這些衣服,而不用去擔心他的銷售與否。其實你看很多品牌要面對銷售跟創意都是兩難,想要同時大賣又創意十足真的難,所以能這樣清楚分開品牌定位,雖然工作量增加很累,但對我來說反而是開心的,能夠盡情做想做的事情。

3. What's your inspiration from?

Ku: Mainly from Movies, maybe not the recent ones but they are the ones which inspired me the most. Sometimes it was the movie I watched long time ago, but without the technics and resource to make it at that time. When later I have more skills and time, I will make it happen. All designers must have a lot of ideas they wanna conduct but with the obstacles from reality. They are always on our minds and one day we may have chance to realize them!

3.請問你的靈感來源

古:我很愛看電影,通常都是以電影為靈感來源。可能很久以前看過某個電影像個種子放在心中,等時機成熟技術也充足時,就有機會把它創造出來,設計師一直都會有很想做的點子但可能被一些現實條件所阻撓,等哪天資源好了就可以好好發揮創造出來。

4.What do yo think about your famous knitwear?

Ku: Well, I think it's a good idea but also a bad idea. People may always consider me as a knitwear player. However, I am still a professional designer so I can definitely do a lot of ideas besides knitwear. Like my patterns and cutting, they are all the things I am good at and want to present to you. This year I used a lot of exclusive pattern, with extracting parts from different fabric and combing them together. 

4.大家常常對你的刻板印象是針織,你有什麼話想說?

古:哈,我常說這是幸也是不幸,常有人都以為我只會針織其他就沒了,但其實我本來是專業設計師出道,各式各樣的方法當然都會嘗試。這兩年我用了很多特殊印花,從原本的白布印上我們獨家設計的花樣,另外也會從許多不同布料抽取出紗線拼接剪裁,這些都是我想呈現給大家的。針織還是會有, 但不是必然,多方嘗試更能證明我的設計實力。

另外台灣人大多對針織還是會有刻板印象,覺得只有冬天毛衣的性質然後會咬肌膚,但像我們學布料的就知道有很多可以玩,像聶永真穿的那件是純蠶絲,是非常透氣涼爽,在夏天穿起來完全不會有毛衣的悶熱感,這就是需要跟消費者溝通的地方。另外要感謝代理商開了實體店面,讓消費者能實際來店面觸摸產品,了解布料的多元性。

(我採訪的時候他整個很可愛的解釋,希望能破除大家對他的刻板印象,除了針織古又文其他的表現也十分傑出,立體花朵剪裁實體看真的美的冒泡啊)

5. What's your methods for creating these two labels?

Ku: Gold label is creativity first, and practicability comes second. However, 01 is the opposite with practicability first and creativity second. I will put my idea to ultimate for my gold label, and then adjust it to more market-oriented for my buyers. 01 is setting those wearable pieces and market position first, after that, I will use my creativity to make it fun and interesting.

5.請問你對這兩個品牌的設計方式是如何?

古:Gold Label 我會把創意擺第一,先把所有靈感推到極致,然後再去簡化成比較貼近消費者的單品,畢竟我還是有買家需要負責;01剛好相反,先定好市場定位,接著添加創意靈感元素成為實穿又創意好看的衣服。

我很感激這兩個清楚品牌定位,畢竟商業仍是品牌茁壯的基礎。沒有商業穩定就會一直為了生存而沒力氣發揮創意,會為了迎合市場設計一大堆可怕的衣服。沒有衣食溫飽很難發揮設計師的想法。(你會喜歡:

6. Please give us the suggestion for maintaing knitwear items?

Ku: Well you need to know these knitwear is from nature. It is not the polyester or those artificial fabric. It will change the color and the shape after you wear it. It won't last forever the same, so please enjoy the change of your pieces and take it as your own special collection.

6.最後可以請您給我們一些針織保養的小技巧?

古:其實你第一個必須得了解你買的如果是真的針織毛衣,親愛的那並不是化學人工的聚酯纖維,它是天然的毛料當然會隨著時間變化跟你的穿戴而改變。它可能會變形變色,但請別擔心,放輕鬆把它當成是你穿過的獨特印記,任誰也帶不走,成為你專屬的衣物。

 We were taking photos in front of his award-winning pieces

我們拍照後面的這兩件就是他的得獎作品,實際看很震撼,饒富生命力的針織單品

btw i accidentally met my former ELLE co workers!

小花絮,當天竟然遇到以前 ELLE 的編輯同事!世界真小

I was really having fun while interviewing Johan himself. He is interesting and also sweet to everyone. Love him so much and wish him all the best!

這次的專訪真的好開心,就像跟好朋友聊天一樣輕鬆有趣,能看到自己的時尚夢想好幸運,希望我也能有一天勇闖時尚界,發光發熱,古又文你也要繼續加油因為你很棒!