上回,作者 Alex Shih 與我們討論 於是這次,他帶我們親身走一遍紐約時裝秀現場,直擊品牌精神、更深入理解時尚不只是一個消費性的名詞,更多的是設計師對作品的投入、作品精神美學的延展!(推薦閱讀:

 

Hello everyone! Have you had the problem browsing through all social media during fashion week, still don't know which show is the best, or what designer should keep your eyes on? Here you go! Alex Style Diaries has already selected 10 best  15 AW fashion show from 4 cities! Please stay tuned to my blog to have latest fashion news.

女人迷的讀者你好,最近時尚資訊整個爆炸,從 instagram 到 Facebook 看完一大堆圖片,卻不知道到底時裝週重點在哪,哪些設計師應該需要關注?於是我決定在自己部落格Alex Style Diaries和女人迷整理秀場重點,從紐約開始報導四大時裝週的重點,讓你輕鬆了解潮流趨勢。(自己常常被這些資訊淹沒,於是用以前在雜誌的方式看完所有時裝秀圖片,找尋每個城市最棒的10場秀給妳)

1. 3.1 Philip Lim

Philip Lim always knows how to turn creative ideas into wearable pieces! This collection is full of plaids and sporty details like bomber jacket and high-waist pants. I especially love the different layers he used to make the whole outfit outstanding but still stay clean.

前幾年很紅的 Philip Lim 這幾年雖然聲勢沒有 Alexander Wang 這麼浩大,但我還是很愛他的設計,今年秋冬他用了很多格紋,運動風外套,皮革等元素妝點整個系列,很厲害的是他用很多混搭豐富整體視覺,卻又不顯得雜亂,這真的是需要好功夫才能達到的。(推薦閱讀:

2. BOSS

The first coat worn by Edie immediately caught my attention with its sharp outline and bold red. There aren't lots of colors this season, only with some red and gray. With Jason's precise cut on every pieces and gorgeous princess line, Boss, this German lady, finally found her style.

BOSS 最近越來越好看,吳季剛的剪裁精準到不行,一開場得大衣就深得我心,整季的顏色用的不多,主要是灰藍等深色,再用紅色點綴,俐落簡潔的線條讓 BOSS 這個德國女郎再度主宰時尚圈(現實德國已經快主宰歐洲了XD)

3.Opening Ceremony

Opening Ceremony always excites me not only the things they select, but also the things they design! Maybe because they don't have brand boundaries as other brands, OC perfectly show the sporty chic with lots of creative items like KODAK sweatshirt.(I want it!)

OC 一直是紐約潮人們必去的逛街地(我好想去),但最近發現他們其實不只東西選得好,設計更是棒。可能因為沒有像其他大牌子有品牌包袱,他們每一季的表現都不賴,這次用了很多柯達底片的圖騰和炫麗印花,讓我好想直奔紐約買下他們!(你會喜歡:

4.Thakoon

I have loved Thakoon's design for a long time for smooth outline. This collection used a lot of fur and geometric pattern. Especially love how he mixed all materials like furs in a harmonious and stylish way.

我一直很喜歡 Thakoon 這位亞裔設計師,算是紐約時裝週的華裔先鋒,他的設計一直是線條流暢,細節饒富巧思,這次用了很多皮草(希望是假的不傷動物),和幾何圖型,很喜歡他用色塊圖騰的方式,讓整體看起來活潑卻又不會很雜亂。

5.Coach

Thanks to Stuart Vevers, Coach has somehow turned her image from cheap outlet brand to a cool designer brand loved by hipsters. They seem to launch these fur biker jacket every season(but still with little difference), and make bags & clothes chic but also affordable for young girls. 

如果說 COACH 是穿著 PRADA 的惡魔裡的小安,那 Stuart 應該就是裡面的奈吉把她徹底改頭換面,從一個全身充滿 LOGO 俗女到個性酷女孩!這幾季都讓我激賞,尤其喜歡他們出的羊皮騎士外套,看起來就很實穿,這季的拼色用法更讓外套有趣十足!(他們家純皮的包也好好看)(延伸閱讀:

6.EDUN

I want to rip out all the coats from the models and take them home!! They are so f**king GORGEOUS!! Edun made coat with simple outline but elaborate details. Like the seams, the sewing, and Non-symmetrical hoods tooth, they all make new statement of classic winter item "coat."

我看完這次 EDUN 超想把模特兒身上的外套通通拔下來帶走!每件大衣搭配自然肩線剪裁,完美符合 model 肩型垂墜下來,搭配有趣的細結像是車線,不對稱千鳥紋到不收邊,把秋冬每家都有的大衣變得趣味無比!

7.BCBGMAXAZRIA

BCBG has been popular by office ladies with the modern design and adorable price. This season, BCBG tried to make them to the next level. Puffy knitwear with flounce beneath, or white fringe sporty dress, they make women powerful but still graceful.

BCBG 不用多說,一樣實穿卻又美麗無比,上班女還應該要入手的就是他們家的衣服啊!(推薦閱讀:

8.Proenza Schouler

PS this time is like a hair dresser who renew every piece's tradition structure and build it to a higher level. No matter the cut of coat collar, non-symmetrical holes of knitwear, or the cow spot, they all perfectly make PS stand out again.

PS 不只是包包有名,他們家服裝一直是很有水準的,這次把傳統服飾的輪廓拆解後重新組合,提升整體趣味度,不管是乳牛花紋到領口不對稱裁剪大衣,每一件都讓PS再次成為紐約時裝周焦點。 (同場加映:

9.Narciso Rodriguez

The silhouette of Narciso clothes is just like the sea breeze from Hampton, so smooth and streaming(Even the coat!). Interesting part is even he uses a lot of pastel colors, models still look sharp and powerful with these gorgeous clothes.

這一季的 Narciso 也是我的心頭好(要是我是女生一定會破產甚麼都想買XD),剪裁流暢到每件衣服都像微風般柔美飄逸(連大衣都能飄逸)。有趣的是即使他調了很多粉色,因為線條簡單,model 看起來依舊是幹練聰明,卻又充滿女性魅力。

10.Rodarte

I have noticed Rodarte a lot since they won the CFDA around 2006.(I was 14!) They always have cool ideas and turn them into marvelous pieces. The collections is a bit retro(Look at the pattern of blazer), a bit rock(leather pants&sequins), and a bit fairy tale(chiffon dresses.) Well, overall Rodarte wake up those little girls in our mind who wanted to try every style just for fun.

最後用我很早就在關注的 Rodarte 姐妹花作結尾,她們兩總能把天馬行空的想法化成翩翩衣裳,很喜歡他們年輕化的設計細節又精緻無比,這次風格很多元,從搖滾的皮褲亮片,復古的印花西外,到童話般的洋裝,每件都要喚醒大家心目中的小女孩,那個願意在衣櫥裡嘗試各式各樣的造型,只為自己開心。