Franck 從開業以來就收到不少針對它價位過高和服務態度差的批評，不過幾天前我和朋友們倒是在這裡渡過了一個愉快的夜晚。這個法國小餐館的價格的確不便宜，但是服務跟剛開店時比起大有改善，而且由柔和燈光和醉人爵士樂營造出的氛圍還是一如既往的迷人。料理呢？Fantastique。
Despite all the negative reviews Franck has received (most of which targeted its service and price), I had a very charming dinner here just a few evenings ago. The prices are still up there, but the service has improved dramatically since the restaurant’s earlier days, while its ambience remained as bewitching as always with its Jazzy lounge music, exposed light bulbs, and dark wood furnishings. And the food? Fantastique.
這裡的菜單以法文手寫在黑板上，不過就算你看不懂也別擔心 － 服務生很願意為客人們翻譯。負責我們這一桌的中國小伙子已在 Franck 工作 4 年，對每道菜都瞭若指掌而且樂於講解，點菜完全不是問題。
The menu du jour, scribbled in French on two blackboards, offers a selection of hearty dishes that changes according to the availability of ingredients. Our waiter, a young Chinese man who has been working at the restaurant for 4 years, was knowledgable about the details of each dish and happy to explain.
First, a bottle of Le “Petit” Rosé de Franck (390 RMB/bottle) and a bread basket, served with butter, olive oil, and balsamic vinegar.
當晚的大餐從 La Grand Charcuterie (290元) 開始，木製的砧板上堆滿了各式冷切火腿、肉派 (terrine de campagne)、鵝肝 (foie gras confit)、醃小黃瓜、和焦糖洋蔥。雖然我平常盡量少點鵝肝，不過 Franck 做的非常好吃，一塊擺在眼前實在難以拒絕。
The feast began with La Grand Charcuterie (290 RMB), which featured a few types of cold cuts, terrine de campagne, foie gras confit, pickled baby cucumbers, and caramelized onions. Why yes, it’s a lovely platter. I’ve been cutting down my foie gras consumption lately, but Franck’s rendition is difficult to resist.
再來一份比較清爽的前菜 Salade d’Asperges (150元)，白蘆筍沙拉佐荷蘭醬和水波蛋。
Then, onto a lighter entrée – Salade d’Asperges (150 RMB), white asparagus salad served with poached egg and Hollandaise sauce.
主菜上桌時，我先嚐了一口 Tartare de Boeuf (180元)。手切生牛肉以蛋黃、芥末醬、水瓜柳、鹽、胡椒、和辣醬做了提味，風味大膽而和諧，牛肉原始的口感也令人驚艷。
Moving on to the main courses, I first tried a bite of Tartare de Boeuf (180 RMB) and was bedazzled. A slab of raw beef was chopped au couteau, its texture well preserved and its delicate flavor accentuated with egg yolk, Dijon mustard, salt, pepper, capers, and a dash of hot sauce. The flavors were bold and exciting, yet in harmony with one other.
嫰烤豬排 Côtes de Porc Poêlées (300元) 也非常出色。Franck 用的是吃橡木果長大的西班牙伊比利黑豬 (black Iberian pigs)，世界上最棒的火腿之一 jamón ibérico 就是用這種豬隻做成的。豐厚均勻的油花讓肉質非常鮮嫩多汁，和馬鈴薯泥與香炒蘑菇一起入口，堪稱完美。
I also loved Côtes de Porc Poêlées (300 RMB), or simply pork chops when translated to English. Franck uses black Iberian pigs from Spain, the same ones that forage for acorns and become jamón ibérico, some of the finest hams on earth. The even marbling of fat gives it a tender texture and juicy flavor. Served with mashed potatoes and sauteed mushrooms, perfect.
另外一道非常受歡迎的是香烤羊排 Carré d’Agneau Rôti (250元)。羊肉還保留著漂亮的粉紅色，搭配百里香和大蒜的香氣，令人食指大動。
Also very well-received at our table was Carré d’Agneau Rôti (250 RMB), roasted rack of lamb . Browned on the exterior but still lusciously pink on the inside, the meat was tender and wonderfully fragrant with thyme and garlic. Served with warm lentil salad.
Risotto de Séliole (280元) 的魚煎的過乾，不過義大利燉飯的奢侈風味和彈牙口感（米心夾生但不過硬！） 讓我忍不住一口接著一口把它往嘴裡送。
As for Risotto de Séliole (280 RMB), the fish was a bit dry but the risotto was love-at-first-bite. Luxuriously creamy yet firm at the core, I could not help but put yet another spoonful in my mouth.
烤雞 Poulet Rôti (180元) 是當晚最普通的一道，雖然做的不差，不過跟餐桌上其他料理比較起來就十分遜色了。
Poulet Rôti (180 RMB) was the least impressive of all. The chicken was fine but did not leave a memorable mark amidst all the wonderful dishes we had on the table.
附送的手切薯條和蔬菜沙拉，簡單美味。
Handcut fries and freshly tossed salads on the side. Simple and good.
由於之前說錯了話（細節省略），我們的服務生送上了一份焦糖冰淇淋 Glace au Caramel 做為賠禮。濃郁的焦糖冰淇淋搭配一小撮海鹽，我們兩三下就把它解決了。
To apologize for a not so well-received remark he made earlier that evening, our waiter sent over a cup of Glace au Caramel (not on the menu) which we happily devoured. Hint: sprinkle a bit of fleur du sel to accentuate the sweetness in the ice-cream.
製作起來耗費功夫的 Tarte Tatin (90元) 是一種倒過來的蘋果派 － 烘烤時派皮放在蘋果上，而非像一般蘋果派一樣將蘋果包裹住。Franck 的 tarte tatin 搭配了有蘋果利口酒味道的鮮奶油，我個人是還挺喜歡的，不過同桌的朋友們好像對這個甜點不是特別滿意。
Tarte Tatin (90 RMB) is a dessert best described as an upside-down pie, in which the pastry crust is baked on top on the apples instead of the other way around (click here to read the story behind). I quite enjoyed Franck’s tarte tatin, which was served with an apple liqueur-flavored crème fraîche and adorned with a sprig of vanilla, though the rest of my table didn’t seem to be as receptive to this dish.
Nougat Glacé (90元) 倒是大受歡迎。濃郁的牛奶凍糕裡加了蛋白餅、蜂蜜、覆盆子、榛果、和奶油杏仁糖，這個組合足夠征服所有愛吃甜點的舌頭。
Nougat Glacé (90 RMB), on the other hand, was welcomed by all. The indulgently creamy block was laced with meringue, honey, raspberries, hazelnuts, and nougats – a combination that would easily swoon anyone with a sweet tooth.
Mousse au Chocolat (60元) 也是一個經典的法式甜點，不過 Franck 的巧克力慕司裡加入了大量的黑巧克力，所以味道較苦。這應該是一份很不錯的甜點，可是吃到這裡時我已飽到無福消受了。
Mousse au Chocolat (60 RMB) is another French classic, and the version at Franck has a very high dark chocolate content and thus more bitter. It was a fine cup, but by this point it was too rich for me to take.
酒足飯飽的我們撐著肚皮，晃著腦袋，非常滿意的離開了 Franck。在這裡的晚餐吃的非常愉快，而且幾杯酒下肚後特別容易被這裡的愜意氛圍給感染。即使是平日晚上 Franck 的生意還是如此之好，顯然不只是我一個人迷上了這家餐廳。要不是為了注意腰線和錢包，這還真是個應該要常來的地方呢…
We left Franck full bellied and thoroughly satisfied. There’s a warmness about this French brasserie, the kind that is especially contagious (especially under the influence of some wine), and the fact that it was almost full on a weekday evening suggests that at least a good chunk of Shanghai is charmed. This is certainly a place to frequent if I weren’t watching my waistline and wallet…
Franck
地址：武康路376號, 近泰安路
電話：158 2167 6767
營業時間：[週二－五] 6pm-10:30pm [週六日] 12pm-2:30pm, 6pm-10:30pm (週一休)
價位：450~600元/人
造訪日期：2012-06
上海美味餐廳精選
〉〉上海 Song Fang Maison de Thé 宋芳茶館（中英對照）