Caprice 有名到幾乎不需要我再多做介紹。這家全香港唯一榮獲米其林三星的法國餐廳，在主廚 Vincent Thierry (之前任職於巴黎 Four Seasons Hôtel George V 的 Le Cinq 餐廳) 所帶領下，將當地和從法國空運來的食材進行搭配，創造出一道道美麗的料理。餐廳裝潢大量的使用金色和特別定制的施華洛世奇水晶吊燈，而透過巨大落地窗望出去便可看到維多利亞港的壯麗風景。華麗，卻不失優雅，連空氣的味道都很不一樣。
Caprice barely needs an introduction. The only French restaurant in Hong Kong with three Michelin stars, Caprice is led by Chef Vincent Thierry (ex-Le Cinq of Four Seasons Hôtel George V, Paris), who orchestrates a contemporary French menu around seasonal and imported ingredients, many air-flown in from France. All these takes place in surroundings of opulent gold, custom-made Swarovski crystal chandeliers, floor-to-ceiling windows, a spectacular vista of the Victoria Harbour, and a chandeliered open-kitchen as the focal point. Even the air smells elegant.
值得一提的是 Caprice 的餐廳領班、糕點廚師和調酒師都是從 Le Cinq 請過來的，絕對是個了不起的陣容。
It is also worth mentioning that the maître d’, pastry chef and sommelier all have Le Cinq on their résumés. An impressive lineup, for sure.
午間套餐可選擇 460 港幣的兩菜套餐和 520 港幣的三菜套餐，均另加 10% 的服務費。第一次來這裡用餐的我決定完全聽從服務生的建議，接下來就等著吃嘍。
Lunch sets at Caprice are priced at 460HKD for two courses and 520HKD for three with an additional 10% service charge. As it was my first visit to Caprice, I simply took the waiter’s recommendations. No fuss.
首先來了一籃面包，搭配含鹽和無鹽的兩種 Bordier奶油 。這個手工制作的頂級奶油以諾曼底和布列塔尼有機牧場出產的牛奶為原料而制成，吃起來有點微酸，口感極其幼滑。據 Bordier 自己說，享用這些黃油的最佳方式是切一小塊奶油放在面包上 － 或刀尖、指尖和叉尖上 － 然後輕柔的將奶油滑到舌頭上。它會立刻開始融化，而其在嘴裏形成的澎湃美味會讓你想起春日的花朵，溫暖的陽光，從海上吹來的風和微烤過的榛果…
First arrived a selection of breads, served with salted and unsalted Bordier butter. This hand-churned, ultra premium butter is made with cream from the milk of cows that graze on organic farms in Normandy and Brittany. The result? A slightly sour and supremely creamy butter. The best way to enjoy this butter, according to Bordier himself, is to “place a small chunk on a piece of bread – or on the tip of a knife, finger or fork – and slip it gently onto the tongue. There, it begins to melt immediately, flooding the mouth with flavors that evoke spring flowers, warm sun, sea air and lightly toasted hazelnuts.” Mmm…this is not the time to be counting calories.
Of course I had to try all four types of bread: sesame, olive, whole wheat, and baguette – the first and the last were my favorites.
開胃小點是裝在雞蛋殼裏的慢煮鵪鶉蛋和栗子奶油 (poached quail egg with chestnut cream)，是一道相當精致的開始。
The amuse bouche, poached quail egg with chestnut cream nestled within an egg shell, was a dainty start.
我們的前菜之一是法國珍珠雞洋薊鵝肝凍批拌核桃汁 (Free Range Chicken, Foie Gras and Artichoke Terrine in Walnut Vinnaigrette)，是一道擺盤十分漂亮的料理。雞肉，鵝肝，和朝鮮薊由雞肉凍拼成九宮格，四周環繞著一圈碎核桃和小蘑菇。這道菜口感很清爽，味道似乎欠缺了些什麽，不過雞肉細緻的肉質相當令人驚艷。後來上網一查才發現 Caprice 選用的是進口 Bresse 雞肉，這個品種源於法國羅納-阿爾卑斯 (Rhône-Alpes ) 領域的 Bresse 地區，只在城市周圍指定的小農場按照嚴格的標準飼養。原來如此！
Our first course, Free Range Chicken, Foie Gras and Artichoke Terrine in Walnut Vinnaigrette, came beautifully plated. Cubes of chicken, foie gras, and artichoke were pieced together with chicken stock jelly, wrapped around with leek, then encircled by a delicate mix of walnuts and mushrooms. Clean taste, but it seemed to be missing something. I was, however, very impressed by the chicken, and later found out that Caprice imports the highly sought after Bresse chicken. This breed originates from the Bresse area of the Rhône-Alpes region of France and is reared to exacting standards by small farms in a small designated area around the city. The quality is easily discernible – an inimitable gamey flavor with fine, tender flesh.
另一到前菜是法式海鮮濃湯拌蘿蔔粒配阿拉斯加蟹肉雲呑 (Shellfish Bisque, Fondant Daikon and Alaskan King Crab Ravioli)。這道湯品有著濃郁的海洋風味，但味道稍微偏鹹，蓋過了阿拉斯加帝王蟹餛飩的細緻風味，有些可惜。
Our other first course was Shellfish Bisque, Fondant Daikon and Alaskan King Crab Ravioli. The bisque, though rich with flavors of the ocean, was slightly on the salty side and drowned the subtle taste of the Alaskan king crab ravioli.
主菜之一是法式薯茸燴野豬拌芹菜頭茸，紅莓醬配燒汁 (Wild Boar Parmentier, Celery Root Mash and Cranberry Jam in Natural Jus)。野豬肉的口感比人工飼養的豬更為精瘦，顏色也更深更紅，味道則介於鹿肉和牛肉之間。雖然有點過鹹，不過這道菜的口感和味道都很有層次 － 尤其出色的是香脆的面包酥和酸甜的蔓越莓果醬，它們讓這道菜變得非常鮮活有趣。
For main course, we first tried Wild Boar Parmentier, Celery Root Mash and Cranberry Jam in Natural Jus. Wild boar meat is leaner and in a deeper red than domestic pork, and tastes somewhat like a cross between venison and beef. Though too salty (again), this was a very nice dish with dynamic layers of textures and flavors – the crunchy croutons and tangy cranberry jam especially brought the dish alive.
另一道主菜是法式煎大蝦拌甘筍茸，芝麻脆批拌特式香料汁 (Tiger Prawns a la Plancha, Carrot Puree, Sesame Pastilla and Sweet Spice Infusion )。不錯，但不是特別令人印象深刻。
Our other main course, Tiger Prawns a la Plancha, Carrot Puree, Sesame Pastilla and Sweet Spice Infusion, was pleasant but less memorable.
甜點，我們選擇了脆香胡桃梨茸泡芙伴榛子汁 (Pecan Nut Profiteroles, Quince and Hazelnut )。松脆的泡芙中填滿了木瓜冰霜，頂著一團榛子奶油和香脆的胡桃，最後以點榛子醬做點綴。這道甜點分量不大而且味道輕盈，卻讓人很有滿足感。
For desserts, Pecan Nut Profiteroles, Quince and Hazelnut. Airy and crispy puff pastries were filled with quince sorbet, topped withhazelnut cream and a crunchy pecan, then drizzled with hazelnut sauce. Light, yet perfectly satisfying.
最後來一杯咖啡和 petit fours 小點心。焦糖糖果和瑪德琳檸檬小蛋糕都非常好吃。
We finished the meal with a cup of coffee and petit fours, the most memorable being the caramel candies and the madeleines.
除了料理之外，讓我非常佩服的是 Caprice 無微不至的服務 － 侍者們在點菜時的細心解釋，為客人拉開椅子時的手勢和表情，擺放餐具時幾乎無聲的優雅動作…一切都做得那麼周到，圓滑。雖然不是每一道料理都令人驚艷，不過在整個環境和服務配套下，來 Caprice 用餐絕對是個享受。別猶豫，先訂位再說吧！
The dishes at Caprice are refreshing, yet rich in flavor. I wasn’t wowed (like I was by a meal at Quintessence), but was happy with the experience especially at the 460~520HKD price point. Most definitely worth mentioning was the professional service – prompt, attentive, pleasant, and never intrusive. I also heard that Caprice has Hong Kong’s widest selection of artisanal cheeses and a wine list to match. I might just have to come back again.
地址：香港中環金融街 8 號，四季酒店 6 樓
價位：[午餐] 460~520 港幣 + 10% / 套 [晚餐] 1000+港幣
更多 [ Cindy 的美食品嘗 ] 專欄文章